Elegance and the desire to be free from any kind of rule or convention: this is the recurrent theme that ran through the recent edition of Milan fashion week, from January the 16th to January the 19th, one of the most anticipated fashion events, which saw the presentation of the new men’s styles and trends for next Fall/Winter 2010-2011. The best Italian and European labels, as usual, took part into this show, proposing their ideas for the man’s look for next winter, a man who returns to his roots, choosing an elegant style which expresses himself and his vision of life. With some obvious exceptions, the man of next fall-winter 2010/2011 will choose highly tailored suits which represent him as a strong and dynamic creature, always impeccable in his austerity.
Winter is the cold season so clothes have to be warm and practical, made in warm fabrics such as jersey or velvet like those primarily used by the king of Italian fashion, Mr. Giorgio Armani. Fleece too is much used, especially for sportswear and for jackets.
Classic coats continue to dominate the scene but the comfortable parkas proposed by Thom Browne for Moncler Gamme Bleu are also very fashionable. Shirts are skin-tight and jeans are often decoratively patched with velvet fabric.
In these last years, many designers have sent their models down the catwalks accompanied by an accessory more usually associated with women’s wear: the handbag. The tote is decisively entering the man’s look everyday becoming a more indispensable accessory for his work but also for his leisure time. A tote bag is convenient and comfortable to carry documents, certificates, papers but also keys, sunglasses, wallet or a warm pullover if the weather should suddenly become cloudy and temperatures colder. Where to keep all these things if not in a chic and trendy men’s tote? So, many designers, taking account of man’s comfort and practicality and not just of their look, have decided to complete the men’s look with the appropriate tote bag to either clasp in the hand or hold by the handles, whether for work or for his social life.
As for the trendy colors of Fall/ Winter 2010-2011, we have certainly noticed that camel is predominant, as well as brown, ivory, grey or navy. Purple and red which were the In-colors of recent fashion seasons, are no longer to be seen, substituted by more sober and candid tonalities like snow white or pearl grey. Black is always in fashion, especially for an elegant suit. A mix of vivid colors, summarized in just one single pullover is proposed by Angela Missoni, given that associations of colors represent the distinctive element of the Missoni brand. Tonalities are mixed together with than nine different fibers contributing to a really gorgeous final effect.
Let’s now look in more detail at some of the most interesting proposals for the Autumn-Winter 2010/2011 men’s wear.
Giorgio Armani breaks the rules of his fashion code: forget the black ties, the dark suits and the white shirts….Armani proposes a revolutionary man with a touch of pure sentimentalism. The military uniform style, with their crisp structured lines and geometric patterned fabrics, are lightened by romantic details, such as a pair of glasses, a beret or by sheepskin gaiters, to express Armani’s main idea: liberating man from any trace of commercialization that has taken over the world of fashion. The woollen collars with buttons substitute scarves and shawls, denims are refined with velvet details or else jackets and pants are entirely made of velvet, since velvet is one of Armani’s favorite fabrics with its elegance and its ability to capture the light. Fluid, roomy jackets and pants, that drape softly, dominate Armani’s collection for next Autumn/Winter 2010/2011 providing a warm re-interpretation of fabrics, especially jersey which is also used for shirts.
A vintage inspiration can be found in Gucci’s collection for next winter, showing the best iconic, simple and perfect pieces with which it’s possible for the past to return. The Gucci man likes to match classic clothing with sportswear, a formal elegance with a more casual one. The ankle-length pants are very slim, generally worn under oversize coats, or pony skin bomber jackets, while jackets are embellished with silk scarves. A lot of camel together with brown, ivory, gray, and navy give everything an elegant appeal, where a camel duffel bag worn with a gray silk turtleneck—or even a safari jacket in a napped blue-gray croc—could be passport to a timeless world of excellence.
To celebrate the 20th anniversary of their men’s collection, the Dolce&Gabbana duo brings their beloved homeland, Sicily, to the runway, screening clips from Giuseppe Tornatore’s “Baaria” during the show. Worn-out knits and leggings typical of farm workers go alongside black velvet suits over dusty shoes, with plenty of accessories from the Sicilian tradition, such as the gilet, both in velvet and denim, and the classic “coppola” (beret).
Prada proposes a very interesting street-style during the men’s Milan fashion week, where the banal turns out to be singular: looking to the young people of the new generation, the fashion house has created a collection composed of cropped jumpers, smart navy blazers, belted cardigans in a mélange knit, and moleskin coats with double collar. The novelty is in the materials and dimensions: techno-future fabrics have been used while sleeves and collars are abundantly extra-large.
Donatella Versace adopts a very dark look for the new man of next Fall-Winter 2010/ 2011, reminding us of Keanu Reeves’ look in the famous film The Matrix, using black leather everywhere: for jackets, coats and, undoubtedly for trousers. They are stretched tight and the line is broken at the calves by shiny biker boots in black patent leather. The atmosphere is very cool and dark, man is transformed into a mysterious creature.
Uniformity is what Thom Browne wants to enhance in his collection for Moncler Gamme Blue. His young soldiers appear lying motionless on their backs, but they are suddenly roused by a reveille bugle call, kit up like a snow patrol in their Moncler parkas, ski pants, and snow boots, and then do a circuit of the room. The clothes? As mentioned above, for Thom Browne clothes must be functional, practical and above all very warm, so that man can face the cold season with dynamicity and strength.
Are you curious to discover the latest fashion news on the women’s fall-winter 2010/2011 collections, which will be presented in February by the top Italian and foreign designers at Milan fashion week? Don’t miss our next articles!!!!!