Refinement and lots of Italian style at the Paris shows for Summer 2013

The long month of the pret-a-porter fashion parades for Spring /Summer 2013 has just ended, with Paris bringing it full circle, enchanting the many buyers, journalists and fashion experts. Many stars and celebrities attended the presentations, with their surprise effects and the most unthinkable and innovative entertainments.

There was much curiosity and expectation around the first Raf Simon women’s collection for Christian Dior as well as the Hedi Slimane collection for Saint Laurent: but, don’t be misled by the names. Even though we are in French territory – known to be the country of elegance and refinement – fashion almost always has its roots in Italy: from the Vicktor&Rolf brand – the Dutch creative duo – directed by the Renzo Rosso group, to the Italian production for Cacharel with Ferretti’s Aeffe group.

But, let’s proceed in order and look at the most interesting new proposals presented on the Paris catwalks.

Bare legs are the main element to catch public attention during the long awaited Dior fashion show, the first by Raf Simons, who has always been a minimalist and a rebel, even though well aware of feminine tastes and desires.

Only the jackets tend to be longer, otherwise it’s all about 60s inspired mini skirts and mini dresses, a great period for women’s emancipation in clothing too.

Jean Paul Gaultier, the great innovator and provocateur, returns to a few past époques, with a certain nostalgia especially for the 80s, and his clothes are inspired by successful stars from Abba to Annie Lennox and Boy George, without leaving out Madonna: instead of a regular fashion parade, it was more of an entertaining show, symbolizing how fashion is more than just a business, having its own sense of joy.

Black waisted jackets leaving the back bare, trouser suits in silk with colourful geometrical prints, kimonos and wide jumpsuits re-proposing Japanese styles, everything in satin.

Celebrating Madonna’s career, an extraordinary diva-like dress with black fringes in silk and visible bra…. while Amanda Lear, at the age of 73, closed the show walking the catwalk with determination and sensuality, showing a fuchsia sequined bodysuit, much acclaimed by the public.

Cacharel’s women are like nymphs for next Spring/Summer 2013: a collection that is a re-affirmation of loyalty to its original line by the popular French Maison, especially to those ethereal fantasies that have always characterized it.

Delicate flowers, sheer fabrics and pastel nuances: as if every model is a bud unfurling, romantic and with that extraordinary simplicity that is elegance personified. Dresses are short with skirts above the knee; shapes are soft and fluid, delicately touching the models’ body like silk caresses.

Fashion can easily be used as a vehicle for positive messages to help save the planet: Vivienne Westwood is pretty definite about this, and with her new collection called “Climate Revolution” confirms her exuberant and creative spirit. She says that she took inspiration from a book on insects, but also from Velasquez’s art and pictures and from the exotic motifs on tea boxes.

For the designer, fashion is particularly important for all those cultural references: we desperately need our traditions, and culture also means to stop and reflect on what we can do for the whole world.

In Paris Costume National, with Ennio Capasa’s style and the collaboration of Maurizio Cattelan, presented a very innovative collection, with a witty and clever play of asymmetric cuts for tuxedos, almost sheer tops with clashing colored lapels and jackets that turn into mini dresses with a strong graphic effect created by the alternating contrasts of black and white.

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy focussed on a very simple but at the same time luxurious and elegant collection: monochrome and vertical lines dominated throughout the show, quietened a little by puff sleeves in taffeta and lots of square shoulders that demand respect. Tisci, always loved by his many fans, sets new trends and every collection is in great demand .

It was all a juxtaposition of masculine/feminine in Giambattista Valli’s collection, together with a careful study of fabrics: today women ask for lightness and simplicity, but also for moments of joy; this is why, with his raspberry red suits in lace, his candid cotton jumpsuits and draped skirts with chiffon and golden brocade for every special event, Giambattista Valli is one of the best-selling designers today.

For the prêt-a-porter, Valentino creations appear as high quality as for the haute couture, showing a meticulous care for details and materials. There are references to the Rome of the Neo Romanticism and to the charm of divas such as Anna Magnani to reconfirm Valentino’s dream, while his two designers underline the importance of excellence and skilfully hand-made clothing, because this is the added value making the difference in Made in Italy.

The collection is characterized by petticoats transforming into cocktail dresses thanks to embroideries and structured fabrics, for a woman of many different facets.

An important comeback in the world of fashion is that of Hedi Slimane, creative director of Saint Laurent: scenery and an exceptional parterre, many celebrities, fellow designers and  stars such as Kate Moss.

Some classics, such as the Saharan and the tuxedo are re-proposed with a prevalence of dark colours and wide hats over very long skirts, with a flavour of the 70’s country-hippy and goth culture.

“The wind told me a story.”  Karl Lagerfeld referring to the wind turbines installed along his catwalk, symbolising lightness and giving the impression that change is in the air. The Chanel fashion parade, thanks to Lagerfeld, reinterprets some classics of the historical brand, such as the suit, with effortless lightness and a rich variation in colours, sometimes even with a sporty touch, for a collection evoking the sea, the wind and light, this reflected in the enormous pearls that are not only worn around the neck but also applied to delicious dresses.